Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Zegna: From Rio to Victorian London

Godfrey Deeny
June 24th, 2009 @ 10:17 AM - Milan

In a season, and house, of contrasts, Ermenegildo Zegna opened the Milan menswear shows with a Latin American stroll before finishing the action Tuesday, June 23, with a march through Victorian England.

The company’s signature collection, Ermenegildo Zegna, staged on Saturday, June 20, the opening of the four-day Italian season, was an extended jaunt around the better hotels of Rio de Janeiro and cocktail parties in Latin America’s most famous resort, Punta del Este.

It summed up the escapist moment that was Milan, where most collections starred high-end global nomads enjoying extended breaks between careers or ssabbaticals, quite possibly enforced, from the nine-to-five jobs.

But the collection was one of the few that addressed ecological concerns, featuring “cool effect” fabrics that reflect the sun and actually chill the hand a little if you hold them. If there was a dominant fabric, it was linen used in slim line pants, to the knee cargo shorts and sightseeing jackets. Staged on a beach boardwalk runway as the scent of Zegna’s new men’s scent wafted through the crowd, this was a gentle rove round the southern hemisphere. No wonder they called the collection “Nomadic Nature.”

Three days later, on the final catwalk of the 41-show season, the house’s directional collection Z Zegna looked to Dickensian England, with roguish scamps in a score of different tails, morning dress and frocks.

Z Zegna’s designer Alessandro Sartori titled the collection “Street Dandy” and one could sense the back streets of "Oliver Twist" with rascals in distorted top hats and multi-pocket coats, all the better to stash a little swag, like the gold chains that accessorized many looks.

Backed up by a cellist positioned on the top of the stairs of Zegna’s high-tech Milan headquarters and made in a collection of impressive fabrics – like, for instance, kangaroo skins so light they practically floated off the backstage hangers – this was a savvy statement of eccentric sophistication.

“Right now, quite frankly, fashion is really not a priority for most men,” said CEO Gildo Zegna.

This collection’s push-the-envelope novelty might be just the thing to attract wary customers back into stores.

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