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.

Giorgio Armani Goes Graphic

Godfrey Deeny
June 21st, 2009 @ 10:45 AM - Milan

It was all about linear shapes and graphics in the menswear runway show by Giorgio Armani on Saturday, June 20, a collection right in sync with the new nomadic moment sweeping through Italian fashion.

Archly striped silvery suits and bold Argyle-style diamond pattern jerseys, two-tone brogues and snazzy shirts in Azulejo tile patterns had lots of punch.

For next spring, Armani wants guys in lean yet sensitive suits, cut taut at the shoulder and fluid at the hip. They demand a fit body to work well, but in an era where expense account lunches are infrequent, a slender silhouette seems very with the times.

Also noticeable was the almost compete absence of ties. Instead, most of the models looked like they were heading off to dinner after a workout at the gym, not dashing off to close a mega deal.

Not everything worked, in particular a foursome of models in indigo toweling worn with white high tops with shin guards, which were rather silly.

But when it came to his selection of leather looks, Armani hit several home runs. Though he’s still best known for his razor sharp tailoring, in recent years much of Armani’s best design work for men has been his crumpled and distressed leather looks for guys. Frequently they are motorbike jackets that will never sit astride any actual bike, but if one wants to make the right impression on a date, these looks complement most any male. And his selection of faux snakeskin weekend leather bags – a big trend here for guys on the move – were the best seen thus far in Italy.

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