Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Burberry: Through the Wind and Rain

Godfrey Deeny
June 20th, 2009 @ 5:44 PM - Milan

The most outstanding collection seen Saturday, June 20, the opening day of the Italian menswear season, was Burberry, whose stroll through the wind and rain was the show that most connected to the current economic zeitgeist.

While the clothes were very much in step with the gentleman explorer aesthetic of Burberry’s creative director Christopher Bailey, the Spring 2010 collection nonetheless reflected the current global mood of wariness, dressing elegantly but never loudly and with an overriding sense of humility.

No designer anywhere, given the lack of action at cash registers, is trying to reinvent the wheel, but Bailey, to his credit, at least addressed the global mood with a show that began in with a downbeat opening and then morphed into a celebratory high-end nomad moment.

“I wanted to begin in the rain and end in the sun, a typical English day,” Bailey said backstage.

His opening was all about new takes on Burberry’s symbolic garment, the trench, showing new shower-proof waxed cottons and linens that had distinction but were never loud. He also revamped the classic padded country jacket with a shiny finish and a nightclub attitude.

Christopher also dipped into one major trend seen the last time the economy was in a tailspin, the bondage shirt, sending out several tops with multiple surgical straps around the torso that were early eighties and edgy.

But his best looks were bulky double-breasted dusters in technical finishes or redingotes in hefty linens that responded to men’s yearning for a look that is both protective and yet posh.

A series of polished, yet also worn, Chelsea boots and some masculine high-tech yachting parkas added to the air of rugged cool.

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