Lanvin Partnering with H&M
September 02nd, 2010 @ 00:54 AM
Coach Opens Ambitiously in Paris
September 01st, 2010 @ 00:26 AM
Lacoste Names Oliveira Baptista New Artistic Director
August 31st, 2010 @ 1:57 PM
LVMH Heads South in Latest Acquisition
July 02nd, 2010 @ 00:12 AM
Hakaan Wins Andam Award
June 30th, 2010 @ 11:05 AM
Net-a-Porter Gets Masculine
June 10th, 2010 @ 8:02 PM
Brunello Cucinelli Named Italian Entrepreneur Of The Year
June 04th, 2010 @ 4:16 PM
Hermes Replaces Gaultier With Lemaire
May 26th, 2010 @ 12:56 AM
Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Last 12 Months
May 26th, 2010 @ 00:47 AM
Ungaro Names Gilles Deacon Creative Director
May 25th, 2010 @ 3:47 PM
Aquascutum Hires Sykes as Design Director
May 17th, 2010 @ 00:07 AM
Hermes Scores 18.5 Percent Rise in First Quarter Turnover
May 06th, 2010 @ 00:49 AM
Rodarte to Create "Breathless"-Inspired T-Shirts for Film's 50th Anniversary
May 05th, 2010 @ 6:05 PM
Gen Art to Shut Down After 16 Years
May 05th, 2010 @ 5:40 PM
Jean-Louis Dumas Dead at 72
May 03rd, 2010 @ 00:46 AM
Armani Opens Debut Hotel in Dubai
April 28th, 2010 @ 4:39 PM
Japanese/Chinese Bank Buys Stake in Costume National
April 22nd, 2010 @ 12:42 AM
Archs Out at Ungaro, Deacon Rumored In
April 21st, 2010 @ 11:53 AM
Vera Wang and David's Bridal Announce New Collaboration
April 20th, 2010 @ 2:43 PM
Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Latest Half Year
April 20th, 2010 @ 00:50 AM
|
|
Burberry: Through the Wind and Rain
Godfrey Deeny
June 20th, 2009 @ 5:44 PM - Milan
The most outstanding collection seen Saturday, June 20, the opening day of the Italian menswear season, was Burberry, whose stroll through the wind and rain was the show that most connected to the current economic zeitgeist.
While the clothes were very much in step with the gentleman explorer aesthetic of Burberry’s creative director Christopher Bailey, the Spring 2010 collection nonetheless reflected the current global mood of wariness, dressing elegantly but never loudly and with an overriding sense of humility.
No designer anywhere, given the lack of action at cash registers, is trying to reinvent the wheel, but Bailey, to his credit, at least addressed the global mood with a show that began in with a downbeat opening and then morphed into a celebratory high-end nomad moment.
“I wanted to begin in the rain and end in the sun, a typical English day,” Bailey said backstage.
His opening was all about new takes on Burberry’s symbolic garment, the trench, showing new shower-proof waxed cottons and linens that had distinction but were never loud. He also revamped the classic padded country jacket with a shiny finish and a nightclub attitude.
Christopher also dipped into one major trend seen the last time the economy was in a tailspin, the bondage shirt, sending out several tops with multiple surgical straps around the torso that were early eighties and edgy.
But his best looks were bulky double-breasted dusters in technical finishes or redingotes in hefty linens that responded to men’s yearning for a look that is both protective and yet posh.
A series of polished, yet also worn, Chelsea boots and some masculine high-tech yachting parkas added to the air of rugged cool.
|