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Lanvin Partnering with H&M September 02nd, 2010 @ 00:54 AM


Coach Opens Ambitiously in Paris September 01st, 2010 @ 00:26 AM


Lacoste Names Oliveira Baptista New Artistic Director August 31st, 2010 @ 1:57 PM


LVMH Heads South in Latest Acquisition July 02nd, 2010 @ 00:12 AM


Hakaan Wins Andam Award June 30th, 2010 @ 11:05 AM


Net-a-Porter Gets Masculine June 10th, 2010 @ 8:02 PM


Brunello Cucinelli Named Italian Entrepreneur Of The Year June 04th, 2010 @ 4:16 PM


Hermes Replaces Gaultier With Lemaire May 26th, 2010 @ 12:56 AM


Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Last 12 Months May 26th, 2010 @ 00:47 AM


Ungaro Names Gilles Deacon Creative Director May 25th, 2010 @ 3:47 PM


Aquascutum Hires Sykes as Design Director May 17th, 2010 @ 00:07 AM


Hermes Scores 18.5 Percent Rise in First Quarter Turnover May 06th, 2010 @ 00:49 AM


Rodarte to Create "Breathless"-Inspired T-Shirts for Film's 50th Anniversary May 05th, 2010 @ 6:05 PM


Gen Art to Shut Down After 16 Years May 05th, 2010 @ 5:40 PM


Jean-Louis Dumas Dead at 72 May 03rd, 2010 @ 00:46 AM


Armani Opens Debut Hotel in Dubai April 28th, 2010 @ 4:39 PM


Japanese/Chinese Bank Buys Stake in Costume National April 22nd, 2010 @ 12:42 AM


Archs Out at Ungaro, Deacon Rumored In April 21st, 2010 @ 11:53 AM


Vera Wang and David's Bridal Announce New Collaboration April 20th, 2010 @ 2:43 PM


Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Latest Half Year April 20th, 2010 @ 00:50 AM



Haider Ackermann: Mode’s New Metaphor, Madness

Godfrey Deeny
March 07th, 2009 @ 3:25 PM - Paris

Paris runways are full of the ‘disturbed woman’ theme; if Friday night finished with Yohji Yamamoto’s crazed females, Saturday morning, March 7, opened with mad mode at Haider Ackermann, in a sensationally well cut and composed collection.

“A troubled woman, escaping her past, but coming from nowhere,” winked, sibyl-like, Ackermann when explaining his fall 2009 collection backstage.

In a sense, this was classical Ackermann with his signature leather jackets, sculpted like hand puppets. Yet there was also an insanity plea, seen in the jagged draping of felt dresses, whose lines recalled the twisted spirals of an brain activity graph.

Even his rare print was distressed – such as his broken plaid, fur lined bolero, the best biker look seen anywhere this season.

Ackermann cuts with a grand, yet always arty, hand; so felt wool gowns, swirl bias-cut to the floor, and boleros dip like men’s dress vests. His devil was also in the great details – like mossy bullion flowers, that rimmed jodhpur pants or fringed vests, or a Valentino red curtain tassel belt, or a mesmerizing metal scarf, worn, crazily, as a vest that barely covered the model’s breasts.

Ackermann, a Columbian born, Antwerp trained, one-time John Galliano assistant, has had a slow boil of career, but this show confirmed him as a major voice in fashion. One could tell from the applause meter, the prolonged, hearty clapping that celebrated this first rate show and delicate look at bothered ladies.

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Fashion Wire Daily: The Last Word in Fashion

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