view slideshow »

Fendi – Flexible Fashion

We got the dichotomy between industry and country, in Fendi’s runway show on Monday, March 2, the latest proof that when it comes to high-end experimental fashion, no house in Italy can quite compare to this historic Roman label.

The collection was industrial in that the colors had a dark and metallic theme; rural in that the structure and finish had protective, sturdy sensibility, all the better in an uncertain time. So micro capes came with protective shoulders, and half the splendid new knobby toed platforms that marched down the runway were fitted with protective shin-guards or ankle spats.

Hues like russet, dark grape seed or stony gray soil all spoke of the return to the country that is the big message this season in Milan; though in Fendi’s case it’s an opulent, even heroic retreat. Every so often in this show –models appeared in molded leather bustiers, symbolizing tough women fighting through tough times. Even the chunky velvet sack dresses with wisps of chiffon fringes were sexy and yet also penitential.

“I wanted flexibility, where clothes are chic yet practical, with country colors like deep forest yet tough enough for the city,” Karl Lagerfeld said backstage.

The flexibility was also apparent in a great series of bags, updated versions of last season’s Fendi hit, the Peekaboo, which can hang artily open; For the coming winter they are cleverly done in mat, waterproof exterior felt and in the interior in fur fused with gold in a zany molecular finish. The house’s accessories designer, Silvia Fendi has re-invented the Peekaboo with a roll-up version, with a furry underside, granting the same object several different moods.

Also impressing were a new radio dial clutch, with a swiveling clasp whose semi precious detailing rotated 360 degrees to open the bag. Above all, where in previous seasons there was sometimes a disconnect between the fashion and accessories, this season they sang from the same score.

Heightening the sense of modern glamour were the impeccable furs, from a metallic pony skin coat with dark mink cape to an oatmeal cape-jacket with Jesuitical sleeves and a remarkable shaggy ribbed mink dress under heroic bustier – a don’t-mess-with-me piece of luxury that had the photographers snappy furiously.

The runway was split down the middle by a trough, while some of the world’s most accomplished catwalkers dressed in this season’s five inch double heels tottered with a little trepidation.

“I liked the sense of uncertainty,” smiled Silvia Fendi, a mischievous look in her eyes.

		* Parsons Launches New Fashion MFA with Support of Donna Karan * Wear This, Not That: "Job Hunt" Offers Tips for Job Seekers