|Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
Marni – Posh Abstraction
March 02nd, 2009 @ 00:26 AM - Milan
Part homage to one’s grandmother’s jewelry, part laboratory experiment in Asian fabrics, part illumination of contemporary cool, the Marni fall 2009 collection staged Sunday, March 1, in Milan was easily the most important statement of contemporary fashion seen so far in the current season, on either side of the Atlantic.
There was not one weak look in this collection, which combined active sports ideas from skiing with haute gamme ornamentation. And another mark of its exceptional quality was the way Marni’s creative director Consuelo Castiglioni had the right look, and garment, for every occasion. Whether loose at the hip, tight at the ankle faux jodhpurs, truncated swing Spencer jackets or forgiving day dresses, that gave professional poise and arty élan, the cut and silhouette was just right.
And the collection was on trend, Castiglioni showed knee socks – like Giorgio Armani two days before – underlining a big style for fall.
But above all it was the unique fabric prints and mixes that kept the audience under a spell. Like gold edged plaids, or jagged stain glass graphics or, most importantly, a finale featuring antique Chinese fabric wallpaper designs. Rarely have such inventive materials been seen on any runway, anywhere.
The accessories were also brilliant, from the cockles and mussels encrusted bracelets to a series of fantasy bibs, necklaces and metallic scarves, all brilliantly lit in austere white beams by lighting designer Thierry Dreyfus.
“My opening idea was antique jewelry. Then I got obsessed with Chinese interiors, as you can see,” smiled Castiglioni backstage.
Yet, though the collection was flawless, the staging was not. The soundtrack, a clever mix of Electronicat, was perfectly judged and paced, but far too loud. At least three front row editors had their fingers stuck in their ears throughout the show.