|Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
Pucci’s Palio Fails to Please
February 28th, 2009 @ 00:47 AM - Milan
It was billed as the debut of a new designer at the house of Emilio Pucci but felt more like the launch of a diffusion line, and a confused and derivative one at that.
Pucci unveiled the first collection by its new artistic director Peter Dundas on Saturday, Feb. 28, wisely shifting the show's location from the barn like Fiera di Milan exhibition halls to an elegant city center Renaissance palazzo. Dundas also smartened up the casting and rethought the hair and makeup - the former minimal and the latter flouncy and peekaboo. But that's pretty much where the good news stopped.
The show's theme of flags and bunting from Italy's greatest horse race, the Palio of Siena, seemed too heavy handed and populist for a label known for its sense of assertive chic. An image of two shirts in garish Palio graphics contained in the program notes placed on every seat caused eyes to roll even before the first model hit the catwalk.
There was more sass and sex in this collection than in those of the Norwegian-born Dundas' British predecessor Matthew Williamson, but precious little subtlety. Opening with thigh boots, streaky print mini dresses and over-sized furs, the collection immediately felt like a junior version of the famed Florentine brand.
Pencil jeans with angled zippers, formulaic multi-strand high-heel booties, eye-blinking silk columns in swirling dark prints, garish U.S. Air Force jackets with Chinoserie designs and far to chunky cable sweaters only added to the sense of lower priced diffusion.
In among his designs there was the odd striking look - in particular some splendidly cut cocktail dresses, one in deconstructed padded black silk and another in criss-cross strands of silk and faux anthracite. But they were nowhere near saving this collection.