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Ferre – Grace Under Pressure, And Bankruptcy's Shadow
Godfrey Deeny
February 27th, 2009 @ 5:53 PM - Milan
If style means grace under pressure, then the designers of Gianfranco Ferre, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, should get medals for their powerfully audacious fall 2009 collection presented in Milan on Friday, Feb. 27, the day after news broke that the fashion house they guide has now officially sought bankruptcy protection from its creditors.
This was only the duo's second outing, since taking over the reins at Ferre, yet already they showed themselves fully in synch with the Ferre signature style - from the late designer's obsession with bows and haute gamme fabrics, to house's tradition of making hyper advanced fashion yet with haute couture quality finish.
None of the many fine fashion houses in Milan has quite the panache and veneer of Ferre, as was evident in the asymmetric pleats mimicking pass partout and hyper grand ruffled Victorian collars.
All this happened a day after Ferre's owner IT Holding joined its manufacturing arm Ittierre in bankruptcy protection as the Italian state stepped in to stop one of the country's biggest fashion group's from going under.
So, one could only applaud the remarkable medieval knight knits - where the large shouldered cable knit cocktails with crystal embroidery seemed almost organically grown.
Even more impressive, Aquilano and Rimondi produced the most outstanding footwear seen anywhere this season. Futurist soles allied with Louis XVI mini table leg heels were all stunning, and a reminder that this duo can build Ferre into an important global brand.
Yahoo!Shopping Dresses
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