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Marc Jacobs - Back to the Eighties

Godfrey Deeny
February 17th, 2009 @ 12:24 AM - New York

It was back to the Eighties on Monday night, Feb. 16, where the Marc Jacobs show reeked of rock-n-roll nights at CBGB.

Staged in New York's Lexington Armory, the fall 2009 collection was faintly Victorian yet subversive. Created in a brilliant riot of vivid pinks, yellows and electric paisleys, the clothes had a party feel to them, heightened by the giant beehive hairdos and bee-stung lipstick that most of the models sported.

“It was all I loved about New York when I first started going out,” said Jacobs, attired in his recent signature look, Dr. Martens boots, white shirt and a “skort,” or kilt crossed with a pair of shorts.

The whole silhouette recalled the power shouldered moments of French designers Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler – but with a couple of twists. The key one being the handkerchief helms to the flounced skirts and dresses.

Standouts included some great denim jodhpur jeans, a remarkable coat in acid yellow and a great bondage dress in kissing pink. There was also a series of inventive fabric clutches and totes which had great pizzazz.

Jazzed up with diagonal zippers, and paired with some great paisley leggings, the clothes had plenty of pep. But there was a sense that these clothes were over the top. Though great to look at on the runway, it was hard to imagine too many women actually heading out on to the sidewalk in these clothes.

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