|Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
Alexander McQueen’s Pugilistic Chic
January 20th, 2009 @ 00:48 AM - Milan
Any suggestion that times are other than tough was laughable after attending the latest menswear show from Alexander McQueen, a collection dedicated to Victorian roughnecks and backstreet fighters.
It felt like a casting for the Threepenny Opera Monday evening in Milan, where half the models carried shillelaghs and all them bovver’ boots, ready to mix it up with anyone who got in their way on the catwalk, done up like a dingy, backstreet in 19th century London.
Composed of a cast that included several professional boxers, and entitled McQueensberry, in a pun on the Marquis of Queensberry who first codified the rules of boxing, the show was a bare knuckle affair, where our posh toughs had hands wrapped in cotton the better to protect them landing knock out punches.
In terms of clothes, McQueen sent out slim-fit Edwardian suits in Harris Tweed and sturdy wools, with tapered six-pocket combat pants and four-button jackets. Shirts had tiny collars, a big trend here, and all the men wore boots, burnished at the toe, and another Milan must-have this season. Topcoats were cut short; the better for a pub brawl, and every model wore short hats, either mini brim Trilbies or more rakish Homburgs.
One lad even appeared in an S&M butcher’s outfit with leather apron, all the better to carve up a slattern, prostitute, in a grisly Jack the Ripper moment.
But in a curious display, too frequently the collection recalled not McQueen’s own oeuvre but that of Jean Paul Gaultier. Men wore four piece suits – even if the fourth item was just a stretch of chain mail – had absurdist wool skullcaps under their hats and several strutted around sporting codpieces, all classic Gaultier fetishes.
So, instead of Alexander McQueen maybe we should call this show, Jean Paul de Ripper?