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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

Burberry: Snood Chic Rules, OK?

Godfrey Deeny
January 18th, 2009 @ 03:00 AM - Milan

If the opening shows in the Italian men’s fall 2009 collections, which began Saturday in Milan, are any indications, then get ready for lean times, best spent hunkering down at home, with the longest trip of the day a descent to the wine cellar to quietly work your way through your better vintages. That, at least, was the message at Burberry, in a wonderfully elegiac collection by designer Christopher Bailey, a nostalgic re-interpretation and posh updating of the pre-war English worker, seen through the eyes of the sophisticated urban gent of today.

Inspired by the photography of Bill Brandt, and his images of frequently poor, yet intensely proud, British folk, the collection had lots of practical basics – sturdy pea-coats, chunky cable sweaters and grand father’s shirts, yet all given such novel twists as to render them thoroughly modern and impressively cool.

Take, for example, the pea-coat, cut with dandified wide lapels, finished at the back with hidden buttons and whipped together in wonderfully enormous takes on the plaid. Throughout the hipster casting wore Road to Wigan Pier grandfather shirts with bibs, miniature Edwardian collars or arty, lawyer-like trims, in the best series of shirts we’ve seen on any Milan runway in many seasons. Bailey also played brilliantly with the house’s signature tartan, blowing it up into a macro plaid, and using it in some great men’s dress shirts, though, on closer inspection, the plaid was actually in a micro herring bone weave – subtle and craftily new.

And with fashion houses here bracing for a tough year at the cash register, this fresh and highly plausible collection contained just the sort of items to tempt a credit card out of a well-closed wallet. Especially when it came to the knits, a snappy supply of hefty cable sweaters, made in broken snow crystal patterns, cut trim, and overlong – so long their cuffs extended well beyond jackets.

Nostalgia, a longing for past, can frequently lead to predictable fashion, but thanks to Bailey’s rich imagination, it inspired a tremendous wardrobe of great clobber. Especially, the well-applauded finale, backed up by U2’s wistful version of “Everlasting Love,” where all the models sauntered out in what looked like cashmere scarves, but were, as Bailey corrected journalists backstage, actually snoods.

Snood, a word of Old English origin, typically means a headband, but in Burberry’s case it was a circular, macro plaid scarf, and became this collection’s fetish item. So fetishist, over a dozen models pinched theirs as they slinked out of the backstage. As good a back, or rather under, handed compliment as we can recall.

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