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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



.

At Vera Wang, an Artist's Spirit as Muse

Renata Espinosa
September 12th, 2008 @ 00:34 AM - New York

Vera Wang's runway backdrop featured two dramatic slabs of a faceted mirror sculpture in homage to the whimsical art of Niki de Sainte Phalle, the free-spirited woman whose life and work as a sculptor, painter and architect was the muse of Wang's Spring 2009 collection, which she showed in Bryant Park on Thursday, Sept. 11.

Taking de Sainte Phalle's sense of freedom and playfulness as her starting point, Wang created a joyful collection of soft, romantic looks that she contrasted with heavy embellishment directly sewn on, or accessorized with chunky, colorful "motorcycle" chains in "Magic Kingdom colors," as Wang described them post-show.

As per usual with a Wang collection, it was all about juxtaposition: Sheer with opaque, body-conscious mixed with the floating volume of a transparent tunic, slices of color peeking out from under a neutral-toned top layer, adorned and unadorned, soft or architectural.

Wang is at her best when there is a tension between restraint and all-out decoration, which was best exemplified by a few dresses where she veiled the beaded embellishment with a layer of organza. It gave the sense of discovering a secret, like opening a book of rare prints protected with vellum.

There has been much talk about the prevalence of color on the Spring 2009 runways this season, with some designers creating palettes that look like they had been conceived in a jelly bean factory. But none so far have been as quietly and carefully rendered as the colors in Vera Wang's Spring collection, who approached color this season with the deftness of a painter. Blush, black and navy formed the foundations for dabs of orange, marigold, violet and celadon.

Wang's customers will find much to love, whether its a delicately rendered silk organza dress, composed like a watercolor painting of layers of transparent fabric or whether they're simply in the market for a black cocktail dress that offers something in the way of innovation - here, there were several, unembellished but draped with sophistication.

Wang, who recently lost her father and mother within the space of two years, was encouraged by the optimism and individuality she found in Niki de Sainte Phalle's life and work.

"I really just needed to shed some of that heaviness and go to another place," said Wang after the show.

And in de Sainte Phalle, she found a representation of the kind of woman she had in mind to wear her clothes.

"She was one of those women who love art and that kind of artsy life," she said. "And she never lost her sense of freedom as an artist and as a woman."

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