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Michael Kors: Portofino Power Pop

Michael Kors turned up the color and championed bold, graphic prints in his Spring 2009 collection, shown in New York on Wednesday, Sept. 10. Glamorous beach bum by way of Portofino or Malibu was the look for one of the most forward-looking sportswear collections from Kors in recent memory.

There were turtlenecks to funnel necks, loose tunics, mod "wet suit" mini-dresses, skintight tank dresses; cheeky checks, polka dots and all-American madras couldn't have been more joyful. Primary colors made a powerful impact – there is nothing sunnier than a yellow polka dot bikini – and for Kors' more reserved customers, there was also plenty of black, white and navy.

"It's all about clothes that change your spirits after a grey, horrible winter," said Kors after the show. "Everyone talks about what's wrong in the world today – the economy and what's going to happen with the election – but I don't know, call me crazy, but I always think the glass is half full, not half empty. Spirited and graphic and upbeat – those are the kind of clothes that really turn me on."

A punchy power pop soundtrack by Michel Gaubert kept the pace of the 73-look show moving as Kors experimented with volume, breaking the pattern of the slim, ladylike silhouettes he's produced for the past few seasons. Origami folded dresses breathed new life into the standard sheath while voluminous tracksuits in bright blue or crimson just might convince a few downtown hipsters to join the Kors camp.

But there was still plenty for those loyal to Kors' brand of classic femininity: Pretty gingham dresses and full skirts, sassy swing coats and safe sheaths.

For men, Kors sailed away with color and pattern as well, pairing madras jackets with flowery capri pants and or suiting them up in scuba-inspired gear. And if you think a man would never revel in such unabashed floral frivolity, both Heidi Klum and Simon Doonan of Barneys New York cited the floral shorts as their favorite look.

Accessories included glossy black or white visors, silver circle linked necklaces, slouchy clutches and hobo sacks or a patent leather overnight tote.

The message with all this assortment was simple: Choice.

"In today's world, you'd be a fashion victim if you said, 'Oh, only full skirts,'" said Kors. "Well, you know what? If that's what works on your silhouette and your body, then that's the shape for you. If you have great legs, go short. If you're a pants girl, go for an easy pant. It was really this idea of a complete, American sportswear wardrobe."

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