Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Rodarte: Duchesses of Punk

Godfrey Deeny
September 09th, 2008 @ 8:11 PM - New York

The conventional wisdom in New York is that the hippest new fashion house currently showing is Rodarte, and judging by the simply sensational collection this label presented Tuesday, Sept. 9 in Chelsea, the establishment has got this one dead on right.

Part homage to eighties futurist power dressing, part exercise in mesmerizing detailing, part space-age vision of edgy punky beauty, the Spring 2009 collection from the Rodarte duo of sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, was quite simply the best this season.

The show opened briskly with a brilliant series of looks: cut-out, zipped at the back leather leggings worn over intergalactic tunics, cut, tucked and darted with remarkable assurance. Multi-material tops composed of shards of leathers, loose weave knits, sequins and mesh combined remarkable technical dexterity with poetic imagination as the collection wowed with virtually every look.

For day, skirts and kilts in glittering gold with micro belts excelled, then at cocktail hour the sisters ramped up even more with crisscross chiffon dresses with micro bras that all said 21st century goddess. Plus the color palette was faultless, dip dyed hues of faded orange, indigo or inky black.

This was also one of those collections that is so good, all the contributors pulled out their best shots – wonderfully cool gold and silver leaf micro skull caps courtesy of hair stylist Odile Gilbert, a spaceship soundtrack from Michel Gaubert and art gallery walls illuminated with strip lighting and a catwalk with a mini bridge over building debris courtesy of Bureau Betak.

"Beautiful Androids," read the backstage instruction for how the models should act, summing up the arty utopianism of this remarkable collection and show.

In recent seasons, a new generation of American designers has emerged, breathing new life into the scene. Even if few really have the aesthetic clout to compete with the heavy weights in Paris or Milan, the biggest exception to that is Rodarte whom, when it comes to creative fire power, sheer inventiveness and gutsy sense of innovation, are the true champions of young American designers. This is a label that on today's evidence could march out on a Parisian catwalk and be assured of applause and acclaim.

Perhaps their remote California digs have also sheltered them from New York's commercial demands and obsessions with merchandise rather than mode. Whatever the explanation, this is most likely the fashion moment of New York this season.

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