|Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson
November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp
November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM
Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up
November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM
Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion
November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM
Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise
November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM
Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear
November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM
London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule
November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM
Azzaro Releases Castello Branco
October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters
October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director
September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM
Brazil’s New London Pop-Up
September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM
McQueen Men Returning Home to London
September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM
Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil
September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM
Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London
September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM
Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna
September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM
Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York
July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM
Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre
June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM
Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection
June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM
Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne
June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM
Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope
June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM
Diane von Furstenberg: Schizophrenically Vreeland
September 08th, 2008 @ 00:51 AM - New York
New York’s latest fashion season opened on Thursday, Sept. 4 but the first significant runway show was on Sunday, Sept. 7 when the chic and the celebrated Diane von Furstenberg staged a curiously off key moment that said little about what women should be wearing in the future.
Staged in the main tent of Bryant Park on Sixth Avenue, the show attracted every American and visiting editor of note plus plenty of boldface name dazzle including Uma Thurman, Venus Williams, Eva Longoria and Jennifer Lopez.
The designer’s latest foray down the catwalk was billed in her program notes as an homage to Diane Vreeland, but there was precious little of the great Vogue editor’s aesthetic legacy or oeuvre in these clothes.
Instead we had an odd mish-mash of overwrought prints used in rather formulaic pieces of apparel from the designer’s signature wrap dresses to predictable tank dresses and mini kaftans. Washed out “whisper” dresses and aged jacquard and chiffon dresses that added – rather than, as they are meant to do, subtracted – decades to the models were among the unfortunate moments of the show. And a particularly drab ensemble worn by model Coco Rocha – mini lace sweater and flared jeans – was the kind of look one associates with Midwestern trade fair or an Eastern Europe salon rather than in central Manhattan.
Vreeland’s famed remark that pink was the navy blue of India remains one of fashion’s greatest insights, but there was no vision in this dull show whose selection of clothes did little justice to von Furstenberg, normally gifted with great sense of Pop panache and hipster lady chic.
What’s usually great about DVF’s clothes is that they impart on the customer a sense of belonging to an understated elite, and do so with relatively little pain at the cash register. Not so this Sunday, a show that may have won the designer cheers from those standing at the back, but perplexed grimaces from certain front row critics.
One could admire some nattily cut three piece cotton pant suits, craftily cut cardigans in hues like magenta and the odd deep purple tunic. Plus a metallic moment that featured good sequined tuxedo shorts, improbable but agreeably wacky, and some great bags, including a faux chain mail tote were all admirable, even if not enough to save this spring summer 2009 collection, surely DVF’s least distinguished this, still brief, century.