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Nicole Miller's Happy-Go-Lucky Charms

"Recession" is a buzzword in the minds of many showgoers as they begin the long haul for fashion week in New York. What kind of economic reality will consumers face next year when it comes time to purchase spring wardrobes?

Nicole Miller, who showed Friday evening, Sept. 5, in the Bryant Park tents, seemed to be answering that question by approaching her Spring 2009 collection with "anything goes" philosophy, tailored to fit the tastes of fickle, individually-minded customers.

Want something tailored, that is also a little bit slouchy? Can't decide between stretch jersey or crisp cotton? Layer on both! And if your dwindling bank account has you down, there's no better fix than one of Miller's energetic carnival-esque prints of a voodoo flag - according to Miller's program notes, it's a good luck symbol and was a running theme throughout her collection. Not only will you feel better, but it just might turn things around.

Miller emphasized draping throughout, from the numerous printed silk jersey asymmetrical dresses to her version of pants this season, cropped and tapered, somewhat resembling sari pants.

One weakness in Miller's collection, however, was the overemphasis on idiosyncratic prints, and a fairly narrow selection at that. If weekend beach getaways are the main thing on the agenda of Nicole Miller's customers, this would work out fine. Though a few sportswear looks made the cut for the show - tailored jackets with embroidery, a trench, a menswear shirt - it was only a token offering and seemed more daywear-inspired rather than something that could actually be worn to work. But if it's feel-good color you're after for spring cut from figure-flattering stretch viscose, add Nicole Miller to your list.

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