Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Raf Simons’ Galactic Groove

Godfrey Deeny
June 28th, 2008 @ 4:23 PM - Paris

Will a lot of guys wear jump suits cut with shorts here on planet earth? Do you expect men to don pleated mini pants with jackets coated in imitation white chocolate flakes when they return from space travel? These were the questions one asked one’s self, exiting the latest thought-provoking runway outing by men’s fashion single most influential player Raf Simons.

There was an other worldly quality to the whole show, staged to the eerie sounds of spacey tape loops, buzzing machines and mini cuts from - was it "Dr Who"? yes it was - all courtesy of a great soundtrack all from Brit art rockers Orbital, masterfully re-mixed by Michel Gaubert.

Models had slicked back hair, rather, one imagined, like public school boys in a college on a far distant galaxy. They marched primly, fairly alien like along the corridors of a Paris high school's central courtyard. Like the music the fabrics were nearly all techy – from plasticized waffled cottons to light wools seemingly coated in very fine coconut shards.

That said, by Raf’s fertile standards this was not a stellar collection; too traditional the cut, too tame the tailoring. However, when you looked at the accessories, you could hear the cash registers ringing. A series of boots and slips that came with contrasting fins in burnt orange and silver, you just knew one third of the audience would be wearing these in a few months.

“Anti Pajama,” cracked Simons after the show, in a dig at all the sabbatical chic clothes on Paris and Milan runways, as designers design for laid off white-collar professionals burning through their severance pay.

“There is a crack in everything, that’s how the light gets through,” read the giant text, i.e., two-meter letters, in the courtyard of the 15th arrondissement Lycee Buffon where the show was staged.

The light may not have dazzled this evening at this Simons’ show, but at least it sure shone.

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