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Alexandre Herchcovitch Pitches Fashion as Protest

Clothing may be a universal concept, but fashion on the runway doesn't usually address larger issues outside of silhouettes, color palettes or fabric choices.

This week, while political dissidents face violent attacks in Zimbabwe and a ceasefire takes effect on the Gaza strip, fashion week in Sao Paulo is in full swing. But designer Alexandre Herchcovitch, who also shows his women's collection in New York, brought the political sphere to the fashion arena on Thursday afternoon, the third full day of Summer 2009 shows.

A row of black flags formed the backdrop of the runway as he marched out a collection of loose olive khaki pants, jumpsuits, shorts and shirts and jackets in multicolored ethnic prints. Herchcovitch was inspired not only by the traditional clothing worn by people of the Middle East, Eastern Europe and Turkey, but also by the military dress of the countries waging war in these areas, including Western armies.

Mixing militaristic-style silhouettes with ethnic prints of familiar, yet indeterminate origin, Herchcovitch said in his program notes that "it is a warning collection, a way of wearing fashion design as a protest, for freedom, compassion, love and equal rights for every human being." While Herchcovitch's fans will no doubt appreciate the political narrative underlying the attire, whether it will read as a statement of protest by the uninitiated rather than a trendy adoption of ethnic dress remains to be seen, but at the very least, Herchcovitch has made it a point of conversation in the fashion world, where such things are not always discussed.

Another major international Brazilian fashion export, Maria Bonita, showed a charming collection largely featuring what could be described as adult rompers: Loose linen onesies in wrinkled, semi-transparent linen utilizing this season's big color blocking trend that conveyed a sense of whimsy. Oversized men's-style shirts and voluminous dresses were the alternative to the slouchy pants. This collection by Maria Bonita will appeal to fans of Dries Van Noten and Marni.

Cori, designed by Dudu Bertholini and Rita Comparato for the second season (the duo also design under their own label Neon, which shows Friday night), was their take on Age of Aquarius hippie adoptions of Native American and/or American Southwest dress. Think wardrobe appropriate for a road trip from Santa Fe to Los Angeles, or vice versa. Lots of denim, in the shape of culottes and high waisted flares, silk trousers in vibrant Southwestern prints and leather fringe swinging from dresses, some of which featured huge gold metallic chimes that noisily clanked as the models walked sounding like a string of aluminum cans on a "Just Married" car for newlweds. As one journalist remarked post-show, "That was the loudest show I've ever been to."

Iodice, another Brazilian export familiar in the U.S. for their denim and casualwear, showed a solid range of daywear and easy eveningwear for women looking for something with a bit of edge, yet not terribly over-the-top or difficult to wear. The show opened with a series of pleated silk shirts and dresses in black and white or dusty pink, some of which featured balloon sleeves and pleated cap shoulders. The beachwear, in bright aqua, was standard issue (semi-transparent cover-ups, maillot suits, big hats) but softly draped white dresses and trapeze gowns for evening took the collection back up. The best were a series of color blocked dresses in an eye-catching palette of teal, nude, black and white.

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