view slideshow »

Jean Paul Gaultier: Not So Petite Sirens

It was a dark, underwater fantasy with La Petite Sirene as its main character Wednesday afternoon in the runway show of the Jean Paul Gaultier couture spring 2008 collection in Paris.

The curtains opened to reveal Coco Rocha as the little mermaid herself, seated on a rock engulfed in a mist of bubbles in a sparkling ensemble of leather trench coat and skirt of copper paillettes, on stage to the left of the runway. Ever the actress, Rocha looked onto the spectacle with fascination and naiveté before deftly removing herself from her seaside perch, shaking her character and marching down the runway as the fifth look of the show. With Edith Piaf, French sea shanties and siren's songs playing on the soundtrack, the models, in various states of wet, dressed either as sailors with sea captains cap and cig or pale, sparkling, leggy sea nymphs, sauntered down the runway.

Ranging from broad shouldered power suits in grays and blues to beaded and crocheted mini dresses and gowns covered in Chinoiserie embroidery, referencing the far-off destinations of sailors, the collection ran the gamut, while clearly remaining sexily sea bound. Shells and ropes were continuous themes, whether through the metal or leather paillettes on gowns and coats, origami folded pockets on suit jackets or the crocheted details on just about everything. The collection was rich with texture, in both the construction of the fabric as well as the embellishments including fringe, embroidery or beading all referencing various abstract sea creatures.

With the sailor theme, Gaultier was easily able to fit in his signature blue and white stripes. Although on a much grander scale, the look was seen on a delicate lace tunic dress with stripes of blue beading. Whether painted directly onto their skin, on printed tights up their legs or above the elbow leather or silk gloves, tattoos were everywhere. There was not a model on the runway that did not sport some reference to the classic sailor's hobby of body art.

The show, although out of this world, included many wearable looks for all ages. The suits and coatdresses will appeal to the classic couture customer, while the very revealing mini dresses will speak to the younger generation. Members of both gangs clearly loved the clothes, filling the couturier’s Third Arrondissement headquarters with noisy bravos.

Always a spectacle, the Gaultier show did not disappoint in the performance arena. Midway through, a model decked in a sexy, jangling copper body suit with plunging neck line, sea sponge in hand, proceeded to drench herself with water while holding the sponge high above her head. For the finale, Coco hobbled out on pearl, shell and coral covered crutches in full mermaid regalia, cone "shell" bra, scales and fins included, only to drop the crutches halfway down the runway to unzip the skirt up to her thigh, to the sexiest, gold vamp, conical bra wedding dress ever seen. As the rest of the models took their final walk down the runway, Coco reinstalled herself onto her rock, where Mr. Gaultier came out and kissed her before taking his bow.

		* A Very Betsey Birthday Bash * Martha Davis: Industrial Design Meets Shoes