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Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM


Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM


Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM


Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM


Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM


London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM


Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM


Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM


McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM


Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM


Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM


Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM


Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM


Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM


Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM


Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM


Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM



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Raf Simons: Scientists of the Future Chic

Godfrey Deeny
January 19th, 2008 @ 4:43 PM - Paris

Can we put a large X through that old saw that you can not create anything new in fashion, because after seeing the Raf Simons men’s fall 2008 collection that is the only conclusion one can draw.

Raf’s latest ideas for men were so refreshingly original in terms of silhouette, attitude, finish and detailing that it’s no exaggeration to say that he came up with a whole new wardrobe for contemporary men.

His silhouette was near to pencil thin, but where other designers make this look absurdly teenager and improbable for the average guy, Simons’ presents clever clothes a lot of fellows could imagine themselves strutting around in. His trousers might have been drainpipes, but zips up the inner calf, made them easy to put on.

Throughout, the collection was pretty much all in natural fibers, opening with some sensational jackets and tunics in treated jute, over elongated wool pants with ostentatiously large pockets. This is fashion that grants authority and seemed designed for scientists of the future working entirely with renewable resources.

Yet, the mood was also abundantly youthful, in the sense that it looked as if the teenage models had actually thought up the combinations themselves in front of their bedroom mirror, before heading out to confront eternal reality on Friday night.

“I wanted the sense of adolescence, as it is the one time when young guys really experiment with fashion, because they are not aware of any rules,” Simons told FWD backstage.

For night, Raf stepped up a gear with the odd Rothko color block sweater and a series of felt wool coats and jerkins in swirling tropical leaf patterns.

Simons also sent out the best selection of shoes for men we’ve seen anywhere in Milan or Paris - a choice between mesh covered brothel creepers or high-tech, ergonomic, faux snakeskin rocker wraparounds that every hip editor will want to wear and every high store want to copy.

Backed up by an evocative soundtrack - a brainy mix by DJ Michel Gaubert of “Burial,” futurist electronic blues by England’s Burial - and staged with a sensibly understated mood, this collection was the most original we’ve seen on the Continent. Let’s pray lots of guys wear it; they should.

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Fashion Wire Daily: The Last Word in Fashion

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