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Coach Opens Ambitiously in Paris
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LVMH Heads South in Latest Acquisition
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Hakaan Wins Andam Award
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Brunello Cucinelli Named Italian Entrepreneur Of The Year
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Hermes Replaces Gaultier With Lemaire
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Burberry Turnover Rises 7 Percent in Last 12 Months
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Ungaro Names Gilles Deacon Creative Director
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Hermes Scores 18.5 Percent Rise in First Quarter Turnover
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Rodarte to Create "Breathless"-Inspired T-Shirts for Film's 50th Anniversary
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Gen Art to Shut Down After 16 Years
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Jean-Louis Dumas Dead at 72
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Armani Opens Debut Hotel in Dubai
April 28th, 2010 @ 4:39 PM
Japanese/Chinese Bank Buys Stake in Costume National
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Archs Out at Ungaro, Deacon Rumored In
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Paris – A Roland Mouret Moment
Godfrey Deeny
July 04th, 2007 @ 11:03 AM - Paris
The man many regarded as the best foreign designer living in London – Roland Mouret – made a welcome comeback Tuesday with a flush new financial partner sitting front-row and a state of the art trunk show in the immediate pipeline.
Mouret, who parted acrimoniously last year from his former partner, is now back in business with Simon Fuller, the multi-millionaire behind Pop Idol.
Though he made his return during the Paris fashion season, Roland in fact presented a spring 2008 cruise collection, and a pretty tight one at that.
Staged in a bare white space at the top floor of a Paris museum of architecture – there are several in this city – the collection was not that large, a bare 20 pieces, but what we saw looked really rather fine.
Divinely slinky lilac hued cocktails or panelled and taut dresses in loose weave gray and ecru linens were standouts. Though the strongest ideas were some wonderfully curvy hemmed dresses that contrasted visually with the tight tops with which they were paired. Also impressive were the après-guerre button up spiky platforms made in tandem with Christian Louboutin.
“I based this collection on a woman’s body, on trying to understand it that bit more. But the main thing is it’s just great to be back,” Mouret told FWD, moments before Net-a-Porter honcho Nathalie Massenet announced that the entire collection would start retailing tomorrow (Thursday) at 12.30 PM NY time.
“We’ll have a video of the show, backstage visuals, close up shots. It’s a 21st trunk show,” bragged the ebullient e-tailer.
Though the collection did contain some great looks, the show will not go down as one Mouret’s greatest, and his choice of fabrics, in particular some slightly sad black and white verticals, was not up to his usual standard. In a word, it was several notches below his famed showing in a London embassy, performances of the kind that earned him British Designer of the Year back in 2004.
But the main thing was that Mouret has returned to the catwalk. He remains a Top 20 designer in our book and with Fuller’s support should be able to realize his full potential.
“We knew of Roland and were aware of how much talent he had. So when we realized he needed rescuing we were delighted to help,” Fuller told FWD.
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