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Browne for Brooks

Andy Warhol famously wore clothes from Brooks Brothers, but that's perhaps the last time the company, founded in 1818 and known for its preppy classics like navy blazers, cable knit sweaters and khaki pants, had any sort of association with cool.

Not for long, if designer Thom Browne has anything to do with it. The designer, who won last year's Council of Fashion Designers of America men's wear award, was commissioned by Brooks Brothers to do four collections for the brand for both men and women. Last week he previewed "Black Fleece," the first of the collections he will design debuting in Brooks Brothers stores come fall.

Though Browne said he looked at iconic Brooks Brothers looks for inspiration, the collection was unmistakably his. For men, there were variations on ideas Browne used in his fall collection – knee length shorts, cropped cuffed trousers, checked suits, capes, and even a tweed parka vest not so dissimilar from one he did for Fall 2006.

But it was the women's collection that most had come to see, Browne's first. Heavily menswear inspired, Browne hitched the waist up on box or accordian pleated skirts and topped them with long and lean blazers in navy, plaid and gray flannel for a 1930s librarian effect. But it wasn't just suits on the menu for Browne. He showed several intriguing eveningwear pieces – in one, a simple bias cut gray flannel gown opened up in the back to reveal a striped silk lining underneath, the evening equivalent of a blazer.

"We wanted to make it like couture in a way, where there are true outfits to buy," said Browne. "She might come in to buy a suit, but she's also be able to buy a special piece for evening."

Browne will also do a full accessories line for Brooks Brothers that will include shoes and bags. A low-heeled oxford for women that he debuted is sure to be a hit.

* Thom Browne: Men Marry in Shorts, and Knee Socks		* A Very Betsey Birthday Bash * Martha Davis: Industrial Design Meets Shoes