Fashion Wire Daily: the First Word in Fashion


Versus Hires Jonathan Anderson November 29th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Cacharel Unveils New CEO, in Major Corporate Revamp November 21st, 2012 @ 00:56 AM

Kane Drops Out of Versus in Major Shake-up November 20th, 2012 @ 10:14 AM

Pucci’s Madison Avenue Store Debuts Massive Expansion November 16th, 2012 @ 00:35 AM

Ghesquière Departs Balenciaga in Major Surprise November 05th, 2012 @ 00:43 AM

Sao Paulo Fashion Week: Between Optimism and Fear November 02nd, 2012 @ 00:28 AM

London Unveils Men’s Season Schedule November 01st, 2012 @ 00:36 AM

Azzaro Releases Castello Branco October 25th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Revenue Soars 22 Percent at LVMH in First Three Quarters October 16th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao Artistic Director September 21st, 2012 @ 8:12 PM

Brazil’s New London Pop-Up September 21st, 2012 @ 7:20 PM

McQueen Men Returning Home to London September 12th, 2012 @ 7:19 PM

Roitfeld, Mum and Son, Open in Brazil September 07th, 2012 @ 00:54 AM

Berluti Opens to Big-Time Business in London September 06th, 2012 @ 3:27 PM

Stefano Pilati Back with a Bang at Zegna September 05th, 2012 @ 7:10 PM

Hugo Boss Wows in Berlin, Plans for New York July 06th, 2012 @ 00:17 AM

Salvatore Ferragamo: Crusin’ the Louvre June 13th, 2012 @ 11:04 AM

Michel Klein Gains New Backer; Launches Sunglass Collection June 13th, 2012 @ 00:48 AM

Sykes Jettisoned by Aquascutum; Maurer In at Rabanne June 06th, 2012 @ 00:18 AM

Armani Conquers China, Chastises the Pope June 01st, 2012 @ 11:53 AM


Ungaro: From Emanuel To Amanuensis

Godfrey Deeny
March 01st, 2007 @ 12:14 AM - Paris

Few collections sum up the problems investors have of turning reputable French fashion labels into major international brands than that presented by Ungaro Thursday afternoon in Paris.

The house of Ungaro used to be called Emanuel Ungaro after its founder, but since his departure its been known as simply Ungaro. The absence of the name and the designer's signature colorful haute gamme sexiness was never more apparent than in the fall '07 collection unveiled in a 1,000-seater custom-built tent in a garden on the opposite side of the Seine from the Eiffel Tower.

Once, Ungaro meant luxurious tie-dyed fantasies and ravishingly rouched silk cocktails that managed to be sexy and feminine at the same time. In today's show, however, it had morphed into a Vegas idea of "glamour," where glitzy sequined robes looked more likely to be worn by a porn star receiving an award than a patrician lady embracing her lover.

That's not to say that Ungaro's current designer, the gentlemanly Norwegian Peter Dundas, is without talent. It's just that his attempt to give his own spin to the house's DNA has led him far too far away from Emanuel's original vision. Try as we might, we found it hard to understand to which woman or peer group Dundas' Ungaro was meant to be appealing to with this over-glammed aesthetic.

There were a few neat items – in particular the hussar meets ski pant trousers that had panache and a great silhouette, with the best of these worn by Brazilian model Raquel Zimmerman.

Dundas' time with Roberto Cavalli's design team was also apparent in the short and sassy red silk cocktails and glittering sequined mini dresses. But even these seemed understated compared with the golden plastic shard dresses and absurdly oversized padded Michelin woman coats.

It was a brow scratching moment in there for us critics and, one suspects, for Asim Abdullah, the San Francisco entrepreneur who bought the fashion house from Ferragamo in 2004.

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